U.S. 30. Driving from Philadelphia to Gettysburg, Pennsylvania

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The Benjamin Franklin Bridge

 

Route U.S. 30 is the third longest road in the United States. It spans the country from Atlantic City, NJ in the east to Astoria, OR in the west, a distance of 3112 miles (5008 Km). I recently posted a story of U.S. 30 in New Jersey, and for the next three weeks I will explore its journey through Pennsylvania.

Philadelphia


 


Route U.S. 30 enters Pennsylvania by crossing the Benjamin Franklin Bridge across the Delaware River. The bridge opened in 1926, and at the time it was the world’s longest suspension bridge. It was the first bridge across the Delaware this far south. Once in Philadelphia the route joins I-676, bypassing Center City, before hopping on the I-95 north.


Cherry Street Pier


Route 30 exits the interstate at Girard Ave, near the Philadelphia Zoo, and my drive took me through the Overbrook neighborhood, along Girard Ave and then Lancaster Ave. The area is poor, working class. It has seen better days, but it soldiers on. 


Philedelphia Trolley





Main Line Suburbs


At the city line, Route 30 crosses U.S. 1, and I began a trip through Philadelphia’s Main-Line suburbs. These were the towns where the monied elite lived (think Kathryn Hepburn in The Philadelphia Story). It is also where U.S. 30 joined what was the first coast-to-coast highway - The Lincoln Highway. The Lincoln Highway was designated in 1913 and ran from New York City to San Francisco. Now it serves as the main road through these towns. It is modern, suburban and throughly commercial until it crosses U.S. 202 in Malvern, PA. 


Brandywine Creek


Unfortunately, here U.S. 30 is shunted onto a bypass highway - 4 lanes with limited access, designed to keep traffic out of local towns and villages. Basically an interstate highway without the glory. But, not to fear, Business-US 30 covers the route of the original highway, passing through several of the small towns along the way. One of these is Downingtown, nestled on the banks of the East Branch of the Brandywine Creek. The town was founded in 1716, and it still has many historic buildings lining its main street. The oldest is Log House, which was built around 1700.







 Lancaster

 

Penn Square, Lancaster, PA


Business-US 30 rejoins the main route near Sudsburyville, and the drive took me through the rolling farmland of Pennsylvania’s Amish Country on the way to Lancaster PA. Once again, U.S. 30 is sent on a bypass, but following the signs for The Lincoln Highway brought me right into the center of the city. Founded in 1742, Lancaster is a beautiful city, one I intend to revisit in the spring, but I did make a stop at Penn Square. I took a coffee break, and enjoyed the square. If you come on a Tuesday, Friday, or Saturday the Central Market is open. It is a great place to stock up the car with snacks for the road.



Penn Sqaure



Central Market

 

Haines Shoe House

 

Haines Shoe House


I continued 20 miles west on my route, first on PA 462, which is the Lincoln Highway here, and then back onto U.S. 30, until the town of Hallam. Taking a right onto Shoe House Road, I arrived at a wonderful example of “Programmatic Architecture.” The Shoe House was built in 1949 to serve as an advertisement for a local chain of shoe stores. Today it can be rented through Airbnb.


 


Gettysburg



 

Unfortunately, on both of my trips along U.S. 30 it was pouring rain when I arrived in the city of York, and I had to bypass its offerings, but that gave me some extra time in my final destination of the day, Gettysburg. Known as the site of one of the pivotal battles of the Civil War, the town is basically one large National Park. The center of town has several souvenir shops and smaller private museums. 



The Return Visit by J. Seward Johnson Jr.

Hotel Gettysburg



Old Train Depot


One plce to visit is the Jennie Wade House. Jennie Wade was the only civilian killed during the three-day battle of Gettysburg. Her sister lived in the house, which sits along what was the line between the Union and Confederate troops. Unfortunately, Jennie’s sister was unable to evacuate because she had just given birth, so Jennie and her mother came to stay with her. Being strong supporters of the Union, the family would bake bread for the soldiers. This drew the attention of Confederate snipers, who peppered the house with bullets and and cannon fire. One of their shots killed Jennie while she was in the kitchen, kneeling some dough.




The Wade family waiting for the fighting to end

A canon shell in the upstairs bedroom

Bread in the kitchen


Jennie Wade (r) with her sister and mother

Jennie Wade


Bullet holes are still visible

If you are interested in shopping not related to the Civil War, check out Waldo’s & Company, a non-profit gallery, bookstore and cafe. It is down and alley, just a block from the town’s center square.






U.S. 30 and the Lincoln Highway played a key role in the development of southern Pennsylvania. We will continue this exploration next week.

Nuts and Bolts


  • From the Ben Franklin Bridge to Gettysburg is about 130 miles.
  • The Jennie Wade House is open Thur - Mon 10:00AM - 4:00PM by tour. Sign up early on line. Adults $16/ Children $12
  • Waldo’s & Co. Wed - Mon 10:00AM - 10:00PM
Location: Gettysburg, PA 17325, USA

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