Three Museums in Alfama, Lisbon

Eletrico 28 in Alfama

Lisbon is a city built on hills. While its Baixa neighborhood sits in a valley, it is surrounded be steep climbs on either side. In the past two weeks we have explored Chiado and Bairro Alto to the west. This week we are going to look to the east of downtown, to the Alfama neighborhood.

Before I got to the twisting streets of Alfama, I had the opportunity to ride Lisbon’s Metro system. One thing that I noticed right away was that, just like in New York City, riders there were mesmerized by their phones, ignoring everything and everyone around them.

I exited the Metro at Terreiro do Paço, the Palace Square station, and its ferry terminal. The terminal was constructed in 1931, and its art deco style was highlighted during its 2011 renovation.

 

Terreiro do Paço Ferry Terminal

Praça do Comercial

Cais do Colunas

Alfama is one of Lisbon’s oldest neighborhoods, dating back to the days of Moorish control of the city. It sits along the slope between the Tagus River and the São Jorge Castle. As I walked up the hill along Rua Santo António da Sé, I immediately fell into the history of the area. I arrived at the Church of Santo António de Lisboa. Better known as Saint Anthony of Padua, he was born in 1195 CE in a house that used to occupy the place where the church sits today. Saint Anthony is also the patron saint of the city of Lisbon, and the original church was built on this site in the 15th century. Along side the church there is a museum that explores his importance to Lisbon.

 

Igreja do Santo António

Apparition of the Baby Jesus to Saint Anthony by Eduardo Viana

Statues of Saint Anthony

I continued up the hill into Alfama, and passed the Sé de Lisboa, the city’s main cathedral. I quickly arrived at my primary goal of the day - the Museu do Aljube - Resisténcia e Libertad; the Aljube Museum - Resistance and Liberty. The Aljube Museum occupies a building that had been used as jail for hundreds of years. In 1926, Portugal was taken over by a fascist government, and Aljube became one of the places that political prisoners were held in Lisbon before “trials” that ended either with their exile of execution.

The museum asks visitors to travel through the history of the struggle for freedom during fascist era, from 1926 until 1974 when it was overthrown. As visitors walk up from the first floor to the fourth, they pass through different aspects of the country’s history. The regime became known as the Salazar Regime, after António Salazar, the Prime Minister from 1932 - 1968. The museum takes visitors from the start of the fascist takeover of the country, into its crackdown on dissenting voices. Thousands of Portuguese people were arrested and imprisoned, and many were tortured and killed. The Aljube shows the ways that prisoners and citizens were treated. It also delves into the ways that they fought back. On the streets and in the prisons, people organized. They carried out actions of resistance, including the production of written materials by many different organizations, that were distributed amongst the prisoners. In 1974, as the government was spending more and more money to try and maintain control of its overseas colonies, there was a revolution in Portugal that removed the Salazraists from power, and created a new constitution. 

A display of political literature produced and distributed in prisons

Military attacks youth concert - 1970

Fascists take control of Portugal

Composite of Amável Vitorino composed of prison ID photos 

The ground floor of the museum has a gallery with rotating shows. On my visit, it was filled with posters and writings that were part of the struggle for freedom among Portugal’s colonies during the 1960’s and 70’s.

For lunch I stopped in at Alpendre, a small, local restaurant, just up the block from the Aljupe. They offer a great Portuguese menu, and I enjoyed the Arroz de Marisco (rice with shellfish). It was a delicious soupy rice dish that was deep in flavor.

My last stop of the day was at the Teatro Romano or Roman Theater. This theater was built around 27 CE, and was deconstructed in the 4th century CE. The ruins were partially uncovered by the 1755 earthquake, and its walls were used by locals to provide walls and rooms for houses being built after the quake. In 1967 the ruins were acquired by the Portuguese government, and a museum was established. The ruins were covered, and can be viewed for free by anyone passing by. There is also a new building that has been built to display many of the pieces from the theater, and to provide a closer look at it.

Home built using the walls of the ruins

Stage Area

Nut and Bolts

• The Museum of Saint Anthony is located at the Largo de Santo António da Sé. It is open Tue - Sun, 10:00 AM - 6:00 PM. The Entrance fee is €4.
• The Aljube Museum is located at Rue Augusto Rosa 42. It is open Tues - Sun 10:00 AM - 6:00 PM. The entrance fee is €4
• Alpendre is located at Rua Augusto Rosa 34. It is open from noon to 11:00 PM every day. Dished run from €15-30.
• The Teatro Romano is located at Rue de São Mamede 3A. It is open Tues - Sun 10:00 AM - 6:00. The entrance fee is €5