Due to its position in the center of the Mediterranean Sea, the island of Malta has always played a key role in the military and trade history of the region. Over its history it has been an outpost of ancient Greece, Rome, and the Ottoman Empire. In 1533, Charles V, Holy Roman Emperor, ceded control of Malta to the Knights of St. John the Baptist, also known as the Knights Hospitaller.
In 1572, following the Great Siege of 1565, the Knights commissioned the building of a church dedicated to their patron saint, in the newly rising city of Valletta. The church remained the primary church of the Knights until they were expelled from Malta in 1798 by Napoleon. After the French were removed power in Malta by the British, Valletta became the home of the British colonial government, and the church grew in prominence. In 1820 the archbishop of Malta, based in Mdina, agreed to designate Valletta’s church as a “co-cathedral” with the Cathedral of St. John in Mdina.
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| Monument of Grand Master Zondadari |
While initially modestly decorated, in 1660 Grand Master Raphael Cotoner ordered the church redecorated in baroque style. To this day almost every inch of its walls are covered with bas relief decorations.
The nave of the church has been used as a space to inter prominent Knights Hospitaller for over 400 years. Its floor is decorated with vivid tombstones for those buried there.
The Knights of Saint John was comprised of military units that were organized by the governments and churches in different countries. When the church was constructed, each branch was given a chapel to dedicate to their own patron saint.
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| St. James the Lesser by Mattia Preti (Langue of Castille, León, and Portugal) |
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| St. George on Horseback by Mattia Preti (Langua of Aragon, Catalonia, and Navarre) |
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| Main Altar |
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| St. Michael Archangel by Guido Reni (Langua of Provence) |
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| Conversion of St. paul by Mattia Preti (Lengua of France) |
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| Mystic Marriage of St. Catherine by Mattia Preti (Langua of Italy) |
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| Barrel Vault of the Nave by Mattia Preti |
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| Adoration of the Magi by Stefano Eradi (Langua of Germany) |
One of the main reasons I decided to visit Malta, and the high-light of the Co-Cathedral of Saint John, resides in its oratory. This was a room dedicated for novices to prepare, contemplate, and pray. It is decorated with 10 paintings of saints, created by Italian master Mattia Preti (1613-1699) who was a member of the Knights. But the room is dominated by ‘The Beheading of Saint John the Baptist,” a masterpiece painted by Caravaggio (1571-1610). This beautiful work was painted in 1608, while Caravaggio was living in Malta, after been convicted of murder and exiled from Rome and Naples. The co-cathedral is also home to a second excellent painting by Caravaggio - Saint Jerome Writing.
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| The Beheading of St. John by Caravaggio |
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| St. Jerome Writing by Caravaggio |
The oratory wing has undergone a major renovation, and reopened in 2021. During the work, the painted was restored. The lighting in the room was redone with LED lights, which slows the damage to the works. St. Jerome has been given its own exhibition space, and a new interactive exhibit on Caravaggio’s works and their history has been created.
The Co-Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist is a wonderful example of Catholic Churches at their baroque best. And the presence of two masterpieces by Caravaggio make it worth taking the time to visit the island.
Nuts and Bolts
- The Co-Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist is open Mon - Sat 9:00 AM - 4:45 PM. I recommend ordering tickets on-line as the entrance line can be long, especially in the morning.
- The entrance fee is €15 for adults/ € 12 for seniors and students
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