Having spent a week in and around the Olympic National Park,
it was now time to head south, and explore the Washington Coast. My travels
were now taking me to Aberdeen Washington.
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Lumberjack Statue |
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Aberdeen is a small city of around sixteen
thousand residents, sitting on the shore of Grays Harbor. Grays Harbor is a
natural bay and protected bay that is 17 miles long and up to 12 miles wide. The
first European exploration of the inlet was in 1792, led by Captain Robert
Gray. Permanent European settlements were established in the 1870’s as the logging
industry moved from east to west and began to grow in the area. Aberdeen and
the neighboring towns of Hoquiam and Cosmopolis became the center of the
logging industry during the early 1900’s with 37 sawmills at its peak in 1930.
Unfortunately, the Depression took a toll on the lumber business, one from
which it never fully recovered. Today, while timber is still important, the
area also depends on commercial fishing, tourism and regional services for
employment.
I stayed at the Guesthouse Inn and Suites, which is an inexpensive motel on the main drag
through Aberdeen. I had a comfortable room in a place that was close enough to
the center of town to make walking to restaurants possible. However, Aberdeen,
like many older industrial towns, has a downtown that can feel very deserted,
especially at night. But there is a move to bring people back to the area in
the evenings by offering good dining choices. I can recommend two restaurants
downtown. One is Amore Pizza and Pasta, which offer very good traditional
Italian food. The other is Rediviva, which offers a modern foodie menu, but very well done. Rediviva
also played a fantastic collection of songs as I ate. For an afternoon snack I
strongly suggest Scoops Ice Cream. Located in a repurposed service
station on US-101, they serve excellent coffee, ice cream, baked goods and
other treats.
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Home to the Museum of History - Joe Mabel [GFDL (http://www.gnu.org/copyleft/fdl.html) via Wikimedia Commons |
While in Aberdeen I visited two places to explore the history
of the area. The Aberdeen Museum of History, which is located in an old armory
that has been converted into a combination museum and social service offices.
The museum presents a comprehensive look at life in Greys Harbor over the past
hundred and thirty years. Its collection includes three lovingly restored antique
fire engines. There are also recreations of several store fronts including the
train depot, a general store and an auto repair shop. There is also a tribute
to Kurt Cobain, who was born in Aberdeen, and lived
in the area before moving to Seattle and founding the band Nirvana. The staff, mostly volunteers, are extremely helpful and
friendly, taking the time to give me a personal tour of the facility.
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Mid 20th Century Class room |
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1894 - Class Rules |
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Classic fire truck |
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General Store |
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Add caption |
My other visit was to The Polson Museum. This historic mansion is in the town of Holquiam, just to the west of
Aberdeen. It is a 16-room building, built in 1924 for F. Arnold Polson and his
new bride. Mr. Polson was the scion of the Polson Logging empire. The Polsons
owned twelve logging camps up in the mountains, two sawmills in town and their
own railroad line to bring timber from one to the other. The family lived here
until 1965, when they moved to Seattle. The house was donated to the city of
Holquiam in 1976 and has been a home to many donated historical items since
then.
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Polson Mansion |
The first floor is a space used for exhibitions. During my
visit there was a show of photographs of loggers from the 1960’s and 70’s,
working at their jobs. Upstairs, the rooms are filled with the bric-a-brac of
life. Clothes, dolls, high school yearbooks, newspaper clippings, and just
about anything else you can think of. All of these are arranged in themed
rooms. The grounds also have a rose garden and an equipment shed that is home
to some classic pieces of logging equipment and railroad engines.
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Butter Churn |
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Steam Engine undergoing refurbishment |
Aberdeen is at the heart of the logging industry, and has
been for over one hundred years. It is an interesting place to explore the
history of Pacific Northwest. But the area has more to offer – Next week: visiting Grays Harbor – What
lies beyond the town.
Note – Grays Harbor does NOT have an
apostrophe. It did originally, but at some point, it was dropped. No one could
definitively say when, or offer a reason why.
Love it. I don't know if I would go there but the museums are fascinating. I especially like the list of disciplinary measures. It's really interesting to see which offenses are the most heinous. The whole lashes thing is disturbing but it is of its time. AMD
ReplyDeleteAgain Jonathan I found this entry very informative. I especially was intrigued by the photo of "Class Rules/Punishments. I would venture to say you included it for all of the educators.
ReplyDelete