Track 17 |
Before we explore more of modern Berlin, I feel that I have
to take the time to look at the biggest issue in Germany’s history - the rise
of National Socialism and the holocaust. How does a country recover from
fascism and remember its victims? In Berlin there are many memorials, from
small to large. They often show up in unexpected places, and they represent an
attempt at dealing with the past that many countries, including the United
States, could learn from.
Stolpersteine
Let’s start with the smallest (in size) memorials, the Stolpersteine, or “stumbling blocks.” These are
concrete cubes, 10 cm x 10 cm, and topped with a brass plaque. They are placed
into sidewalks and streets around the city to mark final residence that victims
of Nazism. This ongoing project was started in 1992 by Gunter
Demnig, a German artist. Working with local schools and historical
organizations, research is done into the lives of persons who were murdered
during World War II and their last, freely chosen place of residence is
determined. A plaque is produced giving the victim’s name, their birth year,
the year of their deportation and death, and the place of their death. As of
2015, over 50,000 stolpersteine have been placed in more than 700 cities and
towns throughout Europe.
Ortes de Erinnerns – Places of Remembrance
Senior Jewish employees can be terminated without compensation and provision (11/12/38) |
Take a walk around the streets in Bayerisches Viertel, the
Bohemian Quarter, and you will find our next set of memorials, but this time
you will have to look up instead of
down. In 1993 artists Renata Stih and
Frieder Schnock installed 80 street signs
on light poles. They chose this part of Berlin because in 1933, it had the
highest concentration of Jewish residents in the city.The purpose of this
memorial is to illustrate the extensiveness of the anti-Jewish laws that were
passed between 1933 and 1945. These laws were designed to disrupt the every day
life of Jewish residents. Laws were passed restricting everything from the
ability to hold certain jobs, to the ability to buy milk and eggs.
Baptism of Jews and their conversion to Christianity has no significance for the question of race (10/4/36) |
Jewish doctors are no longer allowed to practice. |
Each sign
has a graphic representation on one side and a sentence summarizing the law on
the other. Bayerisches Viertel was home to many of Berlins Jewish businessmen
and cultural leaders and it was a center of literature and politics, so it was
a natural choice for this memorial.
Gleis 17 – Track 17
For a visit to one of
the more sedate and disturbing memorials, you have to leave the center of
Berlin and head out to its suburbs. Take the S-7 train west to the Grunewald station. This area is home to
many large mansions along the Havel River. It is also the place where those who
were sent to concentrations camps were loaded onto the trains that carried
them.
When you arrive at the station, walk downstairs from the
platform to the passage under the tracks. Follow along to Gleis 17 (Track 17)
and climb up the stairwell. You will find yourself on an abandoned platform.
Trees are growing among the old rails. It is a beautiful a peaceful sight,
quiet, cut off from the noise of surrounding traffic. Walk along and soon you will
encounter metal grates that mark the edge of the platform. But look carefully
at the edge of the grate. You will find a date, a number and the name of the
concentration camp. Each grate represents one train load of people exiled out
of Berlin, most to their deaths. As you walk along, from one grate to the next,
look at the numbers. They start small, ninety or one hundred people on a train.
But quickly they grow. Soon you see trains carrying more that one thousand
people.
This memorial was constructed by Deutsche Bahn, the German
national railroad company, in 1988. To me, it was the most moving and transcendent
memorial I encountered. It is quiet, and far away from the hustle and bustle of
the city, which is why the Nazis chose this place. Like the stolperstein, it is understated, but
that plays to the banality of the Nazis in their effort to exterminate Jews and
other “undesirables.” And like much of the world’s intentional blindness to
what was happening in Europe, if you didn’t know it was here, you wouldn’t know
what it was. There are no great signs or banners. It is not on most of the
tours. But find your way to Gruenwald Station and you will find a tribute that
brings you inside the immensity of the loss and the efficiency with which these
murders were carried out.
In fact, all of these memorials highlight the commonplace
character of the attacks on Jews and others in ways that the larger memorials
sometimes miss. And that is why they are so important. It is easy to become
lost in the large numbers of those killed by the Nazis. These numbers hide the insidious
nature of fascism. It never appears fully grown, but creeps into existence
convincing ordinary people to accept one small change after another, until,
like the frog placed in cold water on a stove who doesn’t notice the heat is
killing them. Until it is too late. A lesson that still important today.
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